So after the month in India, the team split and went their separate ways. Shalabh, Sam and Zak met up with Andy, Mikey and Alan to explore Aranchal Pradesh while myself and JJ met up with Stanley Pritchard and Slug Colin Aitken. We became known as "Team Bomb" or "Top Lip Slugs". We started our trip by going to the Peak UK challenge and paddling some of the upper gorges of the Bhote Kosi. If the quality of paddling on the Bhote was to go by, this trip was going to be fun!
Stan on the Bhote Kosi
There was never a dull moment in Nepal especially when riding on the roof of the bus. You never knew who you were going to meet or who was going to sit on your lap.
Colin and Stan joined by a local warrior who sat on Stan's lap.
We than made a trip to the Tamba Kosi and on our first night in a tea house, the owner offered us her three daughters to marry which made for an amuzing but slightly uncomfortable evening. The next day in true team style, we bombed the river and made it back towards the Bhote Kosi that night. However, we did end up sleeping on the roof of the bus that night on the top of a pass in sub zero conditions where Colin discovered that his bivi was a load of rubbish. Stanley had to fly home, while we journeyed to Pokhara. Here we were to take on the Modi Khola, Marsyandi and the Kali Gandaki. Colin had ventured far up these rivers on a previous Slugs World Tour so had the itinery well planned.
JJ at the end of the Modi Khola with the sacred Machapuchare in the background.
We started on the Modi Khola and had a day and a half hike in up to Tata Pani. The sherpas we had were fantastic, totally putting us to shame by carrying our kayaks while only wearing flip flops. We also discoverd the village children to be tough when they sang to us as we walked by only then to demand money. While JJ and Colin escaped through first group, on our refusal to give them money, I was body checked by a 3 ft eight year old while his sister clung to my paddle. It seemed to us that this was a very rehersed act that was turning into a mockery through not too smart Westerners giving into their demands. However, the river was great despite the limbo gates at the start created by bamboo bridges.
Colin in the thick of the action on the Marsyandi
The Marsyandi was described to us as a jem. We were aslo told that there would be yet another hike in. While journeying from Pokhara we got stuck in a protest. Villagers had blocked the only road out as they were unhappy with the pay off given to a family that had just had their son killed by a truck. So in Nepali style they chopped down a tree across the road, made a wall across it with rocks and then made the village women sit across the road. We spent many an hour amuzed at how the police (who are completely peaceful) talk to the villagers and discuss negotiations. Sometimes it went bad, so more rocks were thrown on the road and when it got better the women stood up.
Eventually we made it to the river where we found that the road took us almost to the top of where we wanted to be, so no hike in. The only downside to this road construction is that it just means that another dam project is proposed further up the river on top of the dam that is near completion. In a few years I can see the Marsyandi being lost. In true team bomb style, the next day we paddled the river in 4 hours.
Construction up the Marsyandi valley.
JJ lining up a big hole to punch on the Modi Khola.
Time was running out for Colin so the last river we ran with him was the Kali Gandaki. Once again we found that the road had now been built way up the valley so there was no need to hike in. It took under a day of travel, giving us a chance to relax in the evening. The next day we managed to paddle all of the upper and made it back to Pokhara that evening. Colin had to get into India while JJ and I rested for a few days watching a lot of Guru's TV (what I mean by this is that we sat in Guru's restaurant while watching the paragliders and the world go slowly by).
JJ and I took on the Marysyandi again to the dam and this time we managed to paddle it in 2 hours. We took out as close as we could to the dam while being chased by a very worried security guard. We were unlucky and made to hike out over the bridge and up the steep right bank. Others had told us that you can just walk around the dam and put back in. Also Babu a local guy has paddled through the tube (not recommended!).
Denied right of passage at the dam on Marsyandi. Sold to the highest bidder.
Very cheap Christmas gift shopping in Kathmandu was our final activity in Nepal. Nepal is definately amazing and is a destination to return to in the future.
More pictures can be viewed at: http://www.flickr.com/photos/stevebates/collections/72157603531146249/
